“This is a red,” said Jean-Pierre, our ESF ski guide, on my January trip to Les 7 Laux, “well okay, it’s more like a very dark red.” This set the tone for the brilliant and challenging skiing in this little-known resort.
Les 7 Laux, in Isère, is possibly the most underrated resort in our whole programme. Just 45 minutes from Grenoble and easy to access by train, it is beloved of locals and super friendly. We got talking to families from Grenoble and Lyon who love the convenience of this purpose-built resort, which recently celebrated its 50th birthday. We stayed in Prapoutel, one of the three bases that make up Les 7 Laux. Its busy snow front with its restaurants and bars is a great place to end your ski day. The resort is easy to walk around with pretty tree-lined paths that overlook the valley and at night you can see the lights of Grenoble twinkling below. This isn’t a resort where you need to be seen wearing just the right ski gear, its relaxed down-to-earth vibe is the essence of its charm.
The snowfront in Prapoutel, Les 7 Laux
Views over the valley at sunset
Looking towards the lift from Les Granges des 7 Laux
Then there’s the skiing...
120km of piste makes it the largest ski area in the Belledonne mountain range. The resort is perhaps best known for its ungroomed off piste area, the Vallons du Pra, which is renowned amongst freeride enthusiasts. From an altitude of 2400m, and taking in a breathtaking panorama of the valley, you can enjoy 1000m vertical drop through incredible scenery, making the most of the powder and unspoilt snow with complete freedom.
On piste, there is a huge choice of reds and blues that will challenge intermediate skiers; which my legs really felt by the end of our first day! Thankfully, the plan for our second day, with Annabelle from the ESF French Ski School, was much more relaxed. We wanted to check out the Ecureuil (squirrel) trail, which is a great confidence boosting run aimed at children and beginners, but which made for a really enjoyable ski. It takes skiers in a loop across the whole ski area. Allow around two hours to complete the whole trail but, on the way, you’ll discover the resort’s three bases, Prapoutel, Pleynet and Pipay. As we skied along slopes that hug the mountainside, under perfect bluebird skies, the views across the valley were stunning and I had soon forgotten my aching legs.
Annabelle, our ESF guide, and Alison on the Ecureuil trail
On the first lift (almost!) enjoying the views above the clouds
Lots of resorts lay claim to a micro-climate that means that they keep their snow longer and the effects of this were apparent in Les 7 Laux. Skiing in the Le Pleynet zone of the ski area, despite being at 1400m, the snow conditions could easily rival a resort at 1800m. The north-facing slopes and a lack of industry and habitation mean that the local environment doesn’t heat up in the same way, ensuring beautiful snow conditions.
Back down in resort, we ate at Le Kaktuss, which also has a cheery bar with, you guessed it, luminous green fake cacti. The fun cheesy décor belied the superb food and we enjoyed beautifully presented Savoyard cuisine and excellent local beers.
January really was a great time to visit; the snow conditions were superb, the ski passes were great value and whilst the resort was busy enough to feel lively, queues for lifts were minimal. This is the a perfect resort for good skiers or intermediates who want to push themselves a little out of their comfort zone. I’ll be back, once my legs have recovered!
Le Kaktuss bar and restaurant
Snowshoeing with our guide, Pascal
Ski-in/ski-out Les Granges des 7 Laux
Where to eat in Les 7 Laux:
Le Kaktuss, at Residence Les Granges des 7 Laux in Prapoutel - lively bar and a family-run restaurant with high ceilings and a relaxed ambiance.
Le Rocher Blanc, on the snow front in Prapoutel – a friendly cosy restaurant serving traditional Savoyard specialities (I really enjoyed the Röstiflette, a twist on a traditional tartiflette).
Where to eat on the slopes:
La Pincerie, at the top of the Pincerie lift – a welcoming self-service mountain restaurant (we had quiche, with flawless, crumbly pastry).
Le Farinaud, at the foot of the slopes in Pipay – a cosy interior and huge terrace with views over the Chartreuse mountains (we enjoyed a little cheese tasting from a stand just outside, making our lunch stop feel all the more authentically French!).
Where to stay in Les 7 Laux:
Club Prapoutel Les 7 Laux – these apartments are perfect for families with children in ski school as the meeting point is on the slope that runs just behind the residence (you can ski down to the snow front and main lift approximately 200m away). There’s a welcoming lounge area, with a games library, and a bar and restaurant.
Les Granges des 7 Laux – these comfortable ski-in/ski-out apartments are right on the piste and just 200m from the lifts and resort centre. On site is a wellness area and spa with a small relaxation pool, hot tub, sauna and steam room (all payable).
What not to miss:
Try out the Wiz Luge, a mountain rollercoaster on rails, where you control the speed!
Get back to nature on a guided snowshoe walk, as well as revelling in having the forest to yourself, we learnt about animal tracks and local flora and fauna.
Getting there:
By car – Les 7 Laux is an easy drive from Calais (approx. 8h44)
By train – Take the Eurostar to Paris, then a TGV to Grenoble (45 minutes away) or change in Grenoble for a local train to Goncelin (25 minutes away).