Jess, from the Peak Retreats team, stayed in Chamonix with her parents and dog in September 2024. Read all about their trip including some en route troll hunting, where they stayed, their favourite walking routes and what else they got up to…
After last year’s success in Samoëns, I was once again tasked with organising the family summer holiday. Travelling in September, whilst great for missing the school holidays, does leave you limited to resort choice as lots do begin to shut up shop before the winter. Chamonix much like Samoëns is one which is open almost all year round. It was an easy choice!
It was a big birthday year for my mother so we decided to make the most of my time off in the summer and turn it into a mini European road trip, from the UK to Belgium, Luxembourg, France, Switzerland and finally to Spain.
Luxembourg and Belgium were not quite en route but were must do stop offs for a couple of reasons. One, every year I try to visit a new country and two they are home to trolls. Yes I said trolls!
Thomas Dambo is an artist who creates massive troll sculptures out of recycled materials and he has created a troll map which doesn’t give you the exact location, just the general area so you have to hunt for them.
My mum loves trying to find as many as she can and if we are close by it is a must do pit stop for her.
Arvid - Troll Sculpture by Thomas Dambo in Belgium
I would say trolls or no trolls, Luxembourg was a pleasant surprise for a stopover. The city was beautiful with lots of little surprises. I would go back to Luxembourg for longer!
After our galivanting we were back on track for the main part of our holiday, a week in the French Alps. Set amongst the beautiful back drop of the mountainous landscape, Chamonix has a vibrant resort centre with an abundance of restaurants, shops, cafes and outdoor activities to keep you going for far longer than the week. We almost didn’t have enough time there.
Bertie (the dog), my dad and I were more adventurous on the outdoor activity front compared to my mother, which made Chamonix perfect as we were able to go off and do our hiking whilst she enjoyed strolling around the resort centre.
Jess' dad and dog Bertie on a hike in the Chamonix Valley
Our Chamonix accommodation
Swimming pool at Cristal de Jade in Chamonix
We stayed in Cristal de Jade which I could not recommend more! The apartments are beautiful in their design as well as being perfectly located in the resort, close enough to walk to the main street whilst also being far enough away that you don’t get any of the noise.
In the evenings being able to relax in the generous spa and pool area was a luxury we were not expecting to enjoy quite so much. It did help that it was the tail end of the summer season, and we felt like we were the only ones there! The gym whilst small had everything you needed if you forced yourself to partake in a holiday workout.
The Hiking around Chamonix
Plan Praz Lift - Chamonix
The hiking in Chamonix has something to offer anyone and everyone from tame walks just outside the resort centre to more challenging undertakings. On the first full day my dad, Bertie and I decided to take it slowly and do a walk from the top of the Plan Praz gondola to the top of the Flegre chair lift.
We didn’t gain or lose too much altitude along the trail which made for a nice hike at altitude with some amazing views. A chocolate croissant from the local bakery as a mid-hike snack is a must.
Jess and Bertie stopping for a rest and croissant on their Chamonix hike
Coffee stop on the Flegere gondola walking route
This first hike did lead me into a false sense of security…my brilliant idea a couple of days later, was to walk from the bottom of the Flegere gondola all the way to the top.
This was a far more taxing undertaking. We did have to ask for instructions on where the trail began as it is not very obvious. If this is something you would like to undertake it starts behind the vets.
I am not a fit human being so this was a physical and mental challenge, a slow plod to the top. We were no gear and no idea! I would recommend walking sticks for the way down as it was fairly steep and a little harsh on the knees.
If you are having an early morning start like we did there is a lovely little house which serves coffee a good chunk of the way in, only accessible by walking, offering a perfect pick me up.
Unlike our first day, there were no views on this journey as close to the top the fog closed in and it actually started snowing! Should have checked the forecast!
Throughout our holiday we did some smaller easier walks. There is a lovely stroll from the resort centre to a lake with a church ruin on its banks.
A bit more of an uphill adventure there is a walk to a beautiful waterfall, again with a little cafe along the way.
A couple of evenings I did go on runs with Bertie (couch to 5k). Calling it running is a little generous, jogging with walking breaks. The paths on either side of the river that runs through the centre provides perfect, safe and fairly flat routes!
Easy walk close to Chamonix resort centre
Waterfall walk
Day trips from Chamonix
An advantage of driving to the French Alps means you are not limited to the resort you are staying in. We did some day trips to surrounding areas. Deciding to cross the boarder into Switzerland we had a whole day out visiting Charlie Chaplin’s house in Vevey (we had to take turns as it was not dog friendly) and the centre of Vevey down by the lake.
There certainly was a shock to the system with the price of everything in Switzerland compared to France. Despite this we had a wonderful day out which ended up with ice creams in hand whilst walking down on the lake front.
The second day trip we decided on was to head down to Megève. Megève is a unique resort town, founded by the Rothchild family, it does have an exclusive feel about it but is beautiful to just walk around and stop for a coffee.
After asking the tourist office for some advice, we discovered the churches walk which takes you up the hillside and as the name would suggest, takes you around 15 small churches.
This relaxing walk offers amazing views of Megève and the surrounding area.
Church Walk in Megeve
The food (and drink)
Lots of activities means lots of eating and Chamonix did not disappoint with it’s offerings. The Michelin starred restaurant whilst intimidating for dinner, offers a brilliant and reasonable set lunch menu which we thoroughly enjoyed a couple of times whilst there.
Our first visit was last year when we had our day trip to Chamonix (from Samoëns) and we remembered this was one not to miss. Don’t worry about missing out on your coffee fix, there are cafes galore, you could try a new one every day!
Discovered late in the trip but a highlight for me was the local brewery/beer bar, Big Mountain Brewing. The bar is packed every evening but if you can find a perch, well worth the stop. Nothing feels better after a tiring day than having a sip of a good beer or indeed an entire tasting flight.
Flight of Beers at Big Mountain Brewing
Overall Chamonix was a brilliant summer holiday for the three of us (+ Bertie). Even though the weather wasn’t always on our side, it could not take away from our wonderful experience.
As it is such a vibrant resort centre there was something for all of us.
We wrapped up in Chamonix very early on the Saturday morning and off we went to start our trek down to Spain.
Chamonix resort centre
Book your Chamonix summer holiday
Are you ready to book your Chamonix summer holiday or would you like to pick our brains? Peak Retreats are French Alps experts and we have a small friendly team on hand to help with any questions you may have. Give us a call on 023 9283 9310 or email reservations@peakretreats.co.uk.
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Our support doesn’t end when you book. With years of experience and in-depth knowledge of the French Alps, we’re committed to ensuring your ski trip is smooth and stress-free.
We provide 24/7 support while you’re away, personalised info packs, and regular travel updates to keep you informed.
To get tailored advice for your next Alpine holiday, give us a call on 023 9283 9310 or email reservations@peakretreats.co.uk.